Abajo, Mayfair
Plush Life’s Maddi and Fleur share their verdict on Abajo’s Columbian-inspired tasting menu
‘Abajo’ means ‘below’ in Spanish.
And below Michelin-starred restaurant Humo, on Mayfair’s St George Street, is Abajo London — an intimate ten-seater chef’s table which opened in June 2024. Here, executive chef Miller Prada, 34, and sous chef Moris Moreno, 31, have created an ingenious dining experience inspired by the eco-systems of Columbia (where they are from).
Immersed underground in glamorous surroundings designed by the award-winning Afroditi Studio (which also designed the new Mandarin Oriental Hotel and Spa in the Peloponnese paradise of Greece last year), a sense of escapism enveloped Fleur and I immediately.
Our attention turned to the deliciously considered South American-inspired dishes presented to us. Abajo’s menu has five ‘chapters’. Each ‘chapter’ celebrates one hero ingredient, and comprises several inventive dishes highlighting its potential, with riffs on Colombian culinary techniques and traditions.
The chapters introduce diners to Columbia’s eco-systems; the Caribbean coast, the Andes, the Pacific Coast, the Amazon and the Orinoquia (grasslands).
“We wanted to create a sense of harmony between the chapters, and play with the palate,” says Prada. “I left Columbia when I was 16, but as I grew older I wanted to feel more and more connected to the country. Columbia has a huge, rich culture, and so much biodiversity. When I had the opportunity to develop the concept for Abajo, I naturally brought Moris Moreno on board. He’s one of Columbia’s most exciting and knowledgeable young chefs and was formerly head chef at Leo’s in Bogotá, one of Columbia’s best restaurants.'“
The five chapters which unfolded before us when we dined were CORN, MEDITERRANEAN BLUE FIN, EAST SUSSEX QUAIL, KAGOSHIMA BEEF and, finally, TOMATO.
The four components of the first, CORN, were strikingly presented. Corn is the most used ingredient in traditional Columbian recipes.
The MEDITERRANEAN BLUE FIN tuna chapter, in particular, was to die for – served partly on the spine of the tuna itself, which is aged in the specialised fridges that line the room. The fish is aged depending on fattiness, size and weight, allowing natural enzymes to break down the fats for a rich and complex flavour.
The EAST SUSSEX QUAIL chapter is inspired by the northwestern grassland region of Columbia.
In one dish, the quail egg became a scoffable ‘arepa de huevo’ with cime de rapa, coriander and sour cream.
In another, the quail bones were used with achiote spice to make an umami rich cooking liquid for an arborio risotto served with a ‘veil’ of ash-aged pecorino. And in another, the quail breast was served roasted and garnished with a grand fir dressing, celeriac, wild garlic and shallot ashes.
The KAGOSHIMA BEEF chapter at Abajo features cuts of tender Japanese wagyu brisket, tongue and sirloin from A4-rated (one of the highest grades in the Japanese beef grading system) Japanese Black breed cattle from Kagoshima with marbled fat, an intensely rich umami flavour and a buttery texture.
“We’ve aimed to allow the beef to shine in it's different presentations,” says Prada. Key ingredients in this chapter include chontaduro (peach palm), a fruit native to the tropical forests of Central and South America. We also incorporated paico (an aromatic plant also known as Mexican tea).
Fleur and I were equally impressed with the cocktails and the wine pairings. Abajo’s sommelier Julia Reynals introduced us to the wines chosen to accompany each dish with flourish and flair, and the chefs captivatingly described the thinking behind each dish as they prepared them before our eyes.
The TOMATO finale, paired with a celebratory glass of 2018 Rathfinny Blanc de Blanc, is etched in my mind. I adored the pretty plating.
“Growing up in Columbia, for me, tomatoes were always a sweet, juicy fruit, eaten from the vine. To create this final dish, we used we use ingredients like cumaru, also known as tonka beans – a fragrant seed from the Amazon that brings vanilla and verbena notes,” says Prada.
Without exaggeration, Abajo was one of the best tasting menus I’ve had the pleasure of enjoying. Within each dish, within each chapter, there was so much to savour; each was packed not only with flavour and vibrant colour but also with a rich seam of stories —all traceable back to the Columbian heritage of the chefs at the helm.
Fleur and I enjoyed marvelling at the artistry of each dish; the service was lightly theatrical, but not overbearing or gimmicky. The menu was perfectly paced, allowing conversations to unfurl. It was easy to switch off and enjoy the moment in our (admittedly plush) surroundings.
“Moris and I update the music ourselves constantly depending on our feeling,” says Prada. “We are conscious of the lighting, the decoration, the aromas on the room, the drinks, the tone of voice, the storytelling, how we sit our guests. We see it all as a whole and we want to offer our guests an experience where everything is interrelated.”
Fleur and I left on a high after sipping cocktail maestro Angelos Bufos’s ‘Musa’’ concoction (composed of Columbian-aged rum, arabica coffee distillate, Colombian banana amazake, dry sherry and coffee leaf oil), with a thoughtful gift of Columbian ground coffee tucked in a velvet pouch in our handbags.
I’ve never embarked on the same tasting menu twice, but I wouldn’t hesitate to set out on this Colombian odyssey again.
The Plush Life Verdict: Intelligently decadent dining. We urge you to book a table at your earliest convenience.
The details: £150 for a five chapter tasting menu; abajolondon.com. 12 St. George Street, London W1S 2FB; 020 3327 3690; reservations@abajolondon.com
